Apologies for the slight radio silence, I didn’t realize so many people were actually following along with these posts (hi, and thank you 🥹). I’ll try not to go off the grid for so long again!
Today kicked off with a cozy morning at a cafe near my hostel. The weather in Edinburgh has been gloomy and gray, but it weirdly suits the city so well; it adds to the whole mysterious, old-world vibe. I scored a window seat and sipped a warm cappuccino while watching the cobbled streets come alive. Edinburgh is absolutely stunning, but very touristy; I heard more American accents than Scottish ones this morning!
After breakfast I headed to the National Museum of Scotland, which has free entry and is massive. I wandered through the exhibits for a while, everything from ancient artifacts to natural history to fashion and science. The building itself is beautiful too, with huge vaulted ceilings and little nooks everywhere to explore.
Next up was one of my favorite travel activities, a free walking tour. I love doing these in new cities; they’re a great way to get the lay of the land, learn some history, and hear wild local stories you’d never get from a guidebook.
Our guide was fantastic, and bonus, she brought along her tiny dachshund who apparently knows the whole route and basically led the group like a seasoned tour pup (very adorable and very professional).
Even though I’d already seen some of the stops on the tour, hearing about the culture and history added so much more meaning. Scots, as it turns out, are hilarious and deeply stubborn, two qualities I respect haha.
A few standout stories:
- John Knox, the man who converted much of Scotland away from Catholicism, is buried in the middle of a literal parking lot. There’s a numbered space marking his grave. So wild!
- And then there’s Greyfriars Bobby, the loyal little dog who stayed by his owner’s grave in the cemetery for years until he passed too. The whole city adopted him and now there are statues, pubs, and memorials in his honor (my heart!).
After the tour, I went back to the cemetery where J.K. Rowling supposedly got name inspiration for Harry Potter. The most famous is Thomas Riddell’s grave…yes, the real-life Voldemort! 👀
Inspired by a tip from the guide, I then hiked up to Calton Hill, which has stunning panoramic views over the city. I wandered around up top and then spotted a tiny café perched with an overlook. I ducked inside, grabbed an espresso and a scone, and watched the sky shift into golden hour. It was peaceful and lovely, one of those "pause and breathe it all in" moments.
Later in the evening, I met up with a girl named Bella from my hostel. We grabbed a beer at The White Hart Inn (another tour rec and also one of the oldest pubs in Edinburgh), then walked over to a nearby food truck park where we each grabbed a pizza and sat chatting about our travels. She had an early morning, so we said goodbye, and I headed back to the hostel to chill for a bit.
But not for long because I had tickets to a cèilidh (pronounced kay-lee), a traditional Scottish social dance night. I met up with Sophie, another solo traveler from my hostel, and we went to a venue called Stramash, where a live band was leading the crowd through about ten different dances throughout the night. Some were partner dances, others were big chaotic group ones, and yes, the dance teacher in me absolutely came out. I was counting beats and giving people directions like it was my job! 😂
We ended up dancing with a rotating crew of solo travelers from all over the world, and it was so much fun. There’s something truly magical about dancing with strangers who feel like friends by the second chorus.
We stayed until the bar closed at 3:00 AM, sweaty, sore, and so so happy. Most of the people I met tonight are leaving tomorrow, so I probably won’t see them again, but I’m glad we shared this night. Sophie is also backpacking through Europe until November, so maybe our paths will cross again.
For now, it’s off to bed. Tomorrow is my last day in Edinburgh, and if all goes to plan, I might finally be reunited with my backpack in Glasgow.
Until then, I’ll just be here, dancing, dog-loving, and dodging the rain with new friends.